In the
introductory article about Albania I have traditionally discussed general information such as flights, car rental, accommodation or how to pay here. I've also thrown in our complete itinerary, the first part of which =
NORTHERN Albania, which we'll look at in a bit more detail today. So let's see what you should definitely not miss in this area, ladies and gentlemen -
Kruje, Shkoder and Theth.
Kruje
Our first ever stop on the way from Tirana airport was this small town with a
majestic castle that towers high above the valley. The national hero Skanderbeg chose it as his residence in the 15th century and successfully resisted several attacks by the Turks. Today, the castle is freely accessible, with entrance fees only charged in certain parts - the ethnographic museum and the museum of the aforementioned and admired by Albanians Skanderbeg. We were even accommodated in the castle area (
ROOMS EMILIANO Castle of Kruja for €60 with breakfast), so we could enjoy the sunset right under the
Clock Tower and then have dinner a few meters away on the walls.
Another attraction in Kruja is certainly the local market = bazaar, where you can get absolutely anything from historical clothing, mugs, wooden swords, carpets to magnets. By the way, if you are a magnet collector, I recommend buying them here, because they are only more expensive everywhere else.
Transport: the journey here takes about 40 minutes from the capital, if you don't get stuck in a traffic jam. If you have booked a night in some accommodation right at the castle, you can drive to the place, but otherwise you have to leave your car in the parking lot under the castle for 200 lek. Alternatively, check out other accommodations with parking here, and then take a walk to the castle:
Shkoder
Or also Shkodra is the fourth largest city in Albania. It has a terribly pleasant, if tiny, centre, dominated by the pedestrianised
Kole Idromeno street, which is bustling with nice restaurants and cafes. Aside from that, you'll also find the
Marubi National Museum of Photography - a unique collection of photos from the mid-19th century onwards can be viewed for 700 lek, more
info here. I'd say you'll spend more time exploring the surrounding area than in Skadar itself, though...
5 trips from Shkoder:
1) ROZAFA CASTLE - on the outskirts of the city, you should definitely not miss this large fortress on a rock above the confluence of three rivers (the Buna, Drina and Kira). The walls offer a really nice view of the city, the rivers and the Skadar Lake. The entrance fee is 300 leks for an adult (cash only!) and as for parking, you can find a few spots right under the castle (free), but there aren't many and the road to them is pretty bumpy. On Rruga Qafes street you'll occasionally find a free bit + a couple of private paid parking lots in the courtyards.
2) XHAMBIA E PLUMBIT - at the foot of Rozafa, you'll come across this Lead Mosque. It was built in the 18th century by the ruler of the city and named after the lead plates on its roof. Unfortunately it was closed for repairs in October 2024, but I only have a photo from a distance:
3) URA E MESIT - the most beautiful and longest Ottoman bridge in Albania is located near Skadar. It is 108 metres long and its 13 arches span the Kir River near the town of Mes. It is freely accessible and you may notice that you are going a little bit into a curve when crossing it. This is because the local builders tried to avoid the stones in the river.
4) AGRITURISMO MRZI I ZINAVE - I suppose you won't read about this place on any blog, but... well, I'll share :) Especially if you like great food made from local ingredients, you shouldn't miss this gastro experience. It is a farm, a small shop, a hotel and a restaurant where they will cook you probably the best food you will taste in Albania. We ordered a tasting of appetizers and two main courses, which was really a mistake because we had absolutely no chance of eating as many plates of different yummies as landed on our table (the kids were not much help). So if I may advise, I recommend to choose "only" tasting and one main dish. For the record, we paid a total of €50 (can be paid by card), which I think is totally fine.
Practical: The most important thing - don't forget to
book a table! The staff speaks perfect English, so don't worry about the language barrier. Kids can go around the animal enclosures to cut down on long hours. I originally wanted to stay here as well because they have
really nice stylish rooms, but unfortunately they were already full, so my second choice was the
nearby Guesthouse Vitoria. Super nice and hospitable owners, new rooms and lots of animals in the yard. A night here cost us €60 + €5/person for breakfast.
5) LAKE SHKODER - the largest lake in the Balkans is mostly in Albania and to a lesser extent in neighbouring Montenegro. It is of great importance to ornithologists in particular, as it is home to 270 species of birds. Unfortunately the Albanian part is not very accessible, the best choice is the town of Shiroka, which has become a popular resort thanks to its beaches and fish restaurants. From Skadar you can also get here by bike, the route is only 8 km long.
We also spent a night at the Lake Shkodra Resort, because they were probably the only ones far and wide that offered cot rental. They offer several types of accommodation from normal rooms, teepee tents and RV sites to modern cabins with kitchenettes. And that's exactly what I chose - the price is €66/night: there is access to the water, deck chairs, a playground and a nice restaurant where you can go for dinner or even breakfast.
Albanian Alps: Theth
As I have already hinted in my previous article, the heart of the Albanian Alps - the mountain village of Theth was for many years somewhat cut off from civilization, because not many people wanted to or could hike on the unpaved road. However, this year the situation has changed and now in the high season (around May-November, depending on the amount of snow) you can get here from Skadar on the asphalt road in about two hours. And since what is accessible to all will soon lose its charm, I figured we just had to get here while Theth is not yet overrun with tourists and stalled by hotel resorts.
The Albanian Alps are absolutely comparable in beauty to those in Austria, BUT... don't expect to find any cable cars to shorten your journey or mountain huts every few kilometers. Don't look for any facilities for kids here either, so if your little ones don't like to walk or carry themselves, you'd better consider visiting the Alps, because coming here for a spin to go splashing around on the Theth is kind of pointless in my opinion. Sure, there's that iconic church that you'll see in all the photos, postcards and magnets, but the ethnographic museum gives you an idea of what life must have been like here in the past. And then you'll probably take a walk to the fortified tower called a kulla, where people (usually whole families) could hide in times of blood feud. But that's about it.
However, you will have to go further afield for more interesting places and it will require more physical activity :) Still, don't expect any drama, the average adult can do it just fine... and classic sneakers, no need for hiking boots. And more good news - the asphalt is currently stretched all the way to the village of Ndërlysaj, so you're in for quite a pleasant ride, and you don't have to start walking from Theth to get to the next two (probably most famous) hikes. Our situation was such that we arrived in the mountains after several days of rain, when the hills were hidden under thick fog, large layers of mud had formed everywhere, and there was more water than usual in the river and its tributaries. It wasn't ideal, but the rain had stopped and we were on our way... Our status: Nina walked alone, for which I bow, especially in these difficult conditions, and Jony enjoyed a scenic walk from the carrier.
1) Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) - by car you will reach the end of the Rruga de Nikgjonaj road, after the village of Ndërlysaj. On the way you will pass several car parks, of which in October only the very last one charged a fee. Across the river, you can refresh yourself at one of the businesses, or head straight on your way. The route, including access to the pond, is free, expect a total of about 3 km one way.
ATTENTION: maps.cz show one more possibility of parking directly on the "Blue eye route" and I admit that it is tempting to shorten it by a kilometer, especially with children, but this road is really only for proper off-road cars, you can't get through here with an ordinary car.
Right after about 250 meters I recommend to check out the Vaskat stone pools, which are located above the waterfall. After that you just stick to the path, you have nowhere to get lost => the destination: The Blue Eye and its breathtaking shade of blue. You can go around the lake to see it from above (you can see it clearly on the map), but don't be afraid to cross the half-decayed bridge without a railing :) And if you're luckier than us and the current is not so brutal, you can even take a dip in the icy water. In season (or at least not after rain) there are some refreshment options available.
2) Grunas Waterfall - next day we choose a trip to the waterfall, which can be reached directly from the village of Theth. The distance of course depends on where you start from, because Theth is terribly spread out, but for example from the fortified tower it throws some 2 km in one direction. Again, the route can be seen nicely on maps.cz.
We chose the shorter alternative of parking over the Ura e Gerles bridge that spans Grunas Canyon. Here the route is about 2 km round trip, but uphill. Unfortunately the ford, which would normally be completely fine to hop over the rocks, was flooded a bit more than we expected. It was clear that we really can't do this with the kids, so... this time Pepi went exploring by himself and managed it with dry feet :)
Grunas canyon and walk to do ford:
Accommodation Theth
The offer is expanding year by year, but you should still book early, because in the Alps the prices for accommodation and food are generally a bit higher than in Skadar, so don't overpay. I chose
Buni Shqipes for one night, where we paid a nice
€60 including breakfast. The owners are an elderly couple who handle most of the communication via google translator :) incredibly helpful, nothing was a problem for them - they lent us a cot, a torch for the journey to dinner and a small heater to keep the kids warm. If you're happy with modest accommodation and not looking for any luxury, feel free to stay here, otherwise check elsewhere:
I would like to return to the Albanian Alps and explore the more remote parts, like Kelmend. Another attraction for me is the mountain crossing from Theth to Valbona, which is one of the most beautiful treks in the Balkans. However, with little ones, it would be a really pointless venture.
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