Long weekend in Bordeaux
I don't know about you, but for me the winter is always sooo long! I'm not really the type to indulge in winter sports, I've always pulled out my snowboard more just "to use it since I bought it" and walking in the winter is kind of faster than usual. The sun doesn't shine much, my hands (or feet, really) don't get numb and I'm just cold as fuck!
So I usually try to find a destination where it's at least a few degrees warmer than in the Czech Republic, which has been quite a problem this year. The winter schedules are cut every year, but thanks to the coronavirus, the (lowcost) airlines have cancelled even more than usual, and from what's left, we've unfortunately been almost everywhere. A tricky situation... which I solved by buying tickets to Bologna. I had wrapped them for Pep as a Christmas present, but Ryanair had reshuffled the flight times in a completely nonsensical way that left us with no choice but to cancel the whole thing and pick something else. And that "something else" ended up being BORDEAUX.
Logistické info
First of all, the TICKETS, which took me literally only a few seconds to purchase on the Ryanair website. Even their slogan "Low fares made simple" was quite fitting this time - both flights were beautifully on time and the price of a return ticket for one came to about €34 + €25 fee for Donut in one direction. The plane was half-empty, which was a huge advantage for us as we had a whole three-seater for ourselves without adding extra seats. And sitting together on a two-hour flight with a fidgety toddler was pretty neat :) Luckily Nina was in a fine frame of mind and everything went most smoothly.
We had 3 nights in France, but we weren't really in the mood for purely urban tourism, so we decided to RENT A CAR. Thanks to that, I was able to include some interesting places in the Bordeaux area in my itinerary. We picked up the car right at Merignac airport from Goldcar, which, while not exactly getting the best reviews, was the cheapest and we had no problem with it. On the contrary. The staff was very friendly, they even gave us the car early, didn't force us to take out any additional insurance and helpfully added all the "defects" (scuffs/scratches) we reported to the documentation. On return they just copied the numbers off the speedometer and checked the tank, nothing more. Rental at Bordeaux airport for two days priced as follows:
- Citroen C3 Aircross (larger car) with deductible - € 98
- petrol - € 30 (approx. half a tank)
- motorways/toll roads - we didn't pass any toll sections
- parking fee - € 1 (we only paid once, at Dune du Pilat)
- car seat - we had our own, its transport was included in the price of the Nina ticket
Bordeaux
The first stop is the aforementioned super-modern Cité du Vin museum, where you will literally get to know wine from A to Z. More info on the official website. Here you could jump on the tram and get a ride to the centre (line B, info about public transport here), but we prefer to walk along the Garonne river in nice weather along the super wide promenade, where you can also find lots of cafes and restaurants. Well with the carriage it was whizzing like crazy :)
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Bordeaux is particularly popular with architecture lovers, as the extensive city complex and the banks of the Garonne River are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In addition, three local cathedrals are also included in the "Sites of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in France": the Cathédrale Saint-André, the Basilique Saint-Michel and the Basilique Saint-Seurin.
In short, you could easily spend a week exploring Bordeaux... but not everyone has that at their disposal, eh? :) If you are very limited by time, make sure to at least check out the Grosse Cloche bell tower and the former city gate of Porte Cailhau. The historic Place de la Bourse is also a big tourist attraction, where you can take great photos thanks to the huge water mirror, but beware, in the winter months you will be deprived of the reflection in the water. Oh, and lest I forget, be sure to take a moment and try the local delicacy canelé = a small cake with a crispy crust and an interior smelling of rum and vanilla.
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Tips for accommodation - a night in Bordeaux didn't fit our schedule at all, as we returned the car in the evening (at the airport) and it flew away first thing in the morning. For this reason, I opted to stay directly at the airport at the Ibis Budget Aéroport, where a room for the night came to €41. Generally, I booked all my accommodation on this trip with Ibis or Holiday Inn chains for three reasons: value for money, free parking and cot hire, which to be honest was quite a problem elsewhere. I have no idea why, I guess the French are not used to traveling with children, it's hard to say. Back to the Bordeaux accommodation tips, if I had to choose in the centre, it would go like this:
- cheaper: Hotel Life Bordeaux Gare - a small double room for €60/night seems like a fair price to me
- medium: Moxy Bordeaux - modern hotel where a night will cost you about €80. If you're looking for more of a studio, check out Staycity Aparthotels, price depending on the type of apartment.
- luxury: the stunning and highly rated Singulier Bordeaux or the stylish boutique hotel with its own spa Villas Foch
5 interesting places around Bordeaux
1) Arcachon - this is exactly where I painted the greatest burst of sunshine in my head. And this is exactly where we got wet :D Arcachon is located southwest of Bordeaux in the Bay of Arcachon (Bassin d'Arcachon), which a few kilometers further on empties into the Atlantic Ocean. This convenient seaside location has made it a popular holiday resort not only for the French but also for many Brits, but in the winter months you won't usually see a foot of it.
What got us here the most was the breathtaking beach promenade, which took us from the harbour right into the centre to the very photogenic moths. In high season, cruise ships leave from here for sightseeing cruises, but in February? No one. Otherwise, the beach itself is long and wide with fine sand, well... I believe it will be worth a swim in summer :) If beach lounging isn't your thing, perhaps Arcachon will at least entice you to a gourmet experience in the form of the freshest oysters. In fact, Arcachon Bay has become the perfect place to farm oysters, so if you get a chance to sample this delicacy, don't hesitate.
Parking tip: there is a charge for parking at the promenade and in the centre. If you want to avoid paying and don't mind an extra step, leave your car on Rue Alfred Dejean or in the surrounding streets.
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Practical info: there is NO entrance fee, but if you come by car, you can avoid paying the parking fee. The lowest rate is set for 4 hours parking - €6 in high season, only €1 in low season. If you wanted to spend a whole day here in summer, like a walk, sunbathing, rollerblading, picnic, it will cost you 10€. More info on transport options and parking prices on the official website here. Plus, a brand new visitor centre is due to open here in 2023, so it will take on a slightly different, probably more touristy, dimension.
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We spent a perfect half day in Saint-Émilion, full of sunshine, beautiful stone streets, views and vineyards, literally as far as the eye could see. All this without the crowds of tourists. And who would wake up as early as we did, or sometimes it's good to have a baby... We leave the car by the side of the road just before the entrance to the town, a few meters further you will find a paid parking lot. Overall, I would say there is not much parking here, it's probably more of a hassle in high season.
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The history of the town and vineyards dates back to the 2nd century, but many Romanesque monuments have survived, making Saint-Émilion a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The biggest attraction is the monolithic church with its bell tower, but don't miss the second tower, La Tour du Roy, for a truly divine view of the entire town. Actually, you don't need to have a programme, Saint-Émilion is not particularly huge and you will still find most of the interesting places through a leisurely stroll. For example, the strange fountains (Fontaine du Roi/Ancient Lavoir), the remnants of the amazingly preserved Romanesque wall or the remains of the city walls - for example, from Porte Brunet there is also a great view of the vineyards. I took so many photos here (unfortunately) that it would make for a separate article, but I'll try to restrain myself and give just a light selection :)
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The monks had to contend with the Hundred Years War, storms and earthquakes, and later the French Revolution, when the property of the order was confiscated and the remaining buildings changed their function several times over the years, from prison, quarry, school to military hospital. It was only after 1960 that the French government began to take care of the dilapidated property. Today, the Abbaye de La Sauve Majeure is even a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as it also falls under the aforementioned "Sites of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, France". The remains of the monastery are truly impressive, and if you have a trip, be sure to stop here. You can also pop inside for a tour - basic admission comes to €6, or we were interested in combining it with a wine tasting at the adjacent la Maison des vines for €8. More info available on the official website.
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5) Chateau de La Brede - we didn't actually see this place... Google maps warned us that the castle was closed, but I thought we would check it out and go around the outside. But that didn't work either, because right by the main road there was a gate with a big chain. Too bad. The castle in the middle of the pond looks really beautiful, see photo, but it opens for the season. More info on the official website here.
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| Source: Chateau La Brede - http://www.chateaulabrede.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Chateau-Brede-Parc-galerie-8.jpg |
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| Source: France Comfort - https://www.francecomfort.com/en/sights/661/Chateau-de-la-Brede |
I'll provide our schedule (with accommodations) just to give you an idea, maybe it will help someone in planning :)
1. DAY
rent a car
night Holiday Inn Arcachon
2. DAY
Dune du Pilat
Chateau de La Brede
Abbaye de La Sauve Majeure
night Ibis Saint-Émilion
3. DAY
Saint-Émilion
Bordeaux
return a car
+ 4. DAY morning departure
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