5 tips for having fun at Bacalar Lagoon

In my previous article I focused on the most touristy area of the whole Yucatán - the Mayan Riviera, where the two days we spent here were (for many reasons) just right. On the other hand, we could have easily stayed longer in the much less famous and slightly more remote Bacalar area. Bacalar is a town located about 2.5 hours drive south of Tulum, and at the same time the lagoon on its eastern side is so named. It is the Bacalar Lagoon that has become the biggest local attraction and I would say is attracting more and more attention.

It is also called Laguna de Siete colores (Seven Colours) because when the sun shines on its surface, it plays with all shades of blue and azure. The photos from above are especially stunning - the ones you think are not even real, that someone just photoshopped them. No, this is what it really looks like! From up high, the colour differences are even more noticeable because of the depth of the water in different parts of the lagoon, together it's a really incredible sight.

Accommodation

Here too, the choice of accommodation is quite large. You can stay in a hostel for a few hundred, rent an apartment or stay in one of the many beautiful, designer oases of tranquility right on the shores of Bacalar Lagoon. Lakeside hotels have their own private access to the water, and quite often come with the added benefit of free kayak rentals. Just beware of insect company if staying near the lake and don't forget to get repellent ;)

Anyway, a night spent in Bacalar won't break your wallet compared to Tulum. Our home for two nights was the Alojamiento Departamental apartment (away from the water) with self check-in, two beds, kitchenette, parking and the option of boat trips and bike rentals. A night here cost us a pleasant €26. Other options:

• cheap: Guarumbo - accommodation in a tent or glamping style cabin in El Buho
• medium: teki-sha home&suites (night approx. €56 even with breakfast) or Villas Ecotucan (night around €80) - both beautiful and affordable accommodation with great ratings
• luxury: Xcabal Hotel boutique or Our Habitas Bacalar - beautiful rooms with lake view

What to do in the Bacalar area?

1) Fuerte de San Felipe

A massive fortress standing in the very heart of Bacalar, just off the main square, so it's very, very hard to miss. It is shaped like a star and in the past its main task was to defend the city from attacks by pirates who liked to anchor their ships in the lagoon. Now the fort serves as a museum where you can learn more about its pirate history, plus it has a really great view of the lagoon. Admission costs 110 MEX. Anyway, don't expect any all-day event, the museum is tiny, and if you don't feel like going inside, you can see the impressive ramparts with moat and cannons from the outside.

And with a location right in the centre of town, you have plenty of options for a bite to eat or a drink or coffee right at your fingertips. We can recommend Mr. Taco, for example. In the evening, there are also lots of mobile stalls with marquesitas = crispy pancakes with filling of your choice. It's yummy, be sure to try it!

2) Kohunlich

The very large Mayan ruins, located in the jungle about an hour's drive from Bacalar, are definitely worth a visit. Their biggest advantage is that they're not very famous, or at least not mass-market. When we arrived, the only vehicle in the parking lot was a tourist bus (one!) that was just about to leave, leaving us as the only visitors.

The other plus is the location of Kohunlich, as most of the archaeological site is in the shade, so you can expect a pleasant walk... if you have repellent :) However, the different structures are quite far apart, so make sure you have plenty to drink or some snacks. If you really wanted to walk through the ruins in a very honest and thorough way, you will spend several hours here. The price of admission in my opinion fits the "a lot of music for not much money" analogy, because 85 MEX (cash only) really doesn't seem excessive to me. 

On top of that, I'd like to add a TIP for lunch or snack, because I've never had such delicious seafood tostadas (tostadas = toasted crispy tortilla). It's not a restaurant, more just a covered stand, so you won't find it on google maps, but keep an eye out in the town of Ucum. If you go to Kohunlich you'll see a yellow sign on the right that says "Mariscos los Plebes" and you'll see plastic chairs under the roof see photo on the right, so that's it! Luxurious food for literally a few bucks, but dream on about the English menu - either Spanish or pretty hands/feet :)

3) Los Rapidos

Although we don't really enjoy swimming, I have to admit that this was one of the most interesting stops during our Mexican roadtrip. The water is an incredible shade of turquoise, so just looking at it would have been enough, but... Donut loves the water, so we were rock out...

The principle of this natural attraction, located a few minutes' drive from Bacalar, is that you let yourself drift in the current of this stunningly clear water and it costs you basically no energy. Unless, of course, you're trying to keep a toddler afloat, flailing from side to side, trying to drink at all costs. Now, how does a visit to Los Rapidos work?

• free parking
• you pay 150 MEX/person (cash only)
• sit on the benches/benches/chairs
• you can order food or drinks - there is a wide choice, but expect higher prices (here you can pay by card)
• take a life jacket - as you don't have to, it's not compulsory, but then you'll have to work a bit harder
• you walk along the wooden walkway to the end
• you throw yourself into the water and let the current take you back

Well, you can spend the whole day like that :) Pay special attention to the local rarity called stromatolites = calcareous, fossilized and millions of years old sediments on the bottom of Los Rapidos (not only). It is forbidden to tread on them, stand or stop on them with inflatables, kayaks, etc. or otherwise destroy them. There are very few places in the world where you can see this peculiarity and Laguna Bacalar is one of them. Outside of Los Rapidos, you can see stromatolites in another popular swimming area - Cocalitos (entrance 50 MEX).

4) Balneario for free

You might think that Laguna Bacalar is accessible from anywhere, like we are used to in the Czech Republic, that you come to Lipno and spread your towel basically wherever you like. It doesn't quite work that way here. Most of the lagoon is not accessible at all, and the area around Bacalar town very often operates on private access - i.e. you either have access to the lagoon as part of your accommodation or you pay an entrance fee to a beach club/balneario (the case of Los Rapidos, Cocalitos and lots of others, prices vary a lot).

Now, what if you're not staying by the water, nor do you want to pay any admission? Don't worry, there's a solution for that too. Type in Balneario Municipal El Aserradero = public balneario where you can swim for free. Plus I'll throw in some other water access in the area: Calle 14, 16, 18, however El Aserradero is the biggest of them all. Of course, don't count on any services (toilets, changing rooms, snacks, etc) like in the paid balnearios. These are more just wooden piers with steps into the water, no luxury, but it has its charm :)

5) Lagoon cruise

This is probably the activity you will hear about most often, as this beautiful lagoon beckons you to do some sailing. There are plenty of options, so it will depend on your preferences as to what you prefer. Solo explorers will appreciate the option to rent kayaks (often included with accommodation), but be aware that the lagoon is huge and it's not realistic to make it around all the top spots. Organised cruises are ideal for this, with prices based on the type of boat and your requirement for privacy. Just walk downtown to the main street with public balnearia and the offers will just pour in. Definitely don't arrange anything in advance from the Czech Republic, there's no point.

We originally wanted to do the cruise through our accommodation, but ended up rethinking the plan because Nina was going through her "I see water => I'm going in" period. In short, it wouldn't be ideal to take her on a boat :) Anyway, just for interest, and your idea of the price, the offer from our hosts looked like this:

• new luxury padded boats
• Shared cruise - there may (may not) have been other people on board
• price: 400 MEX/person
• free pick up at the accommodation
• trip length: approx. 2.5 h
• places visited: Canal de los Piratas, Cenote Negro, Cenote Cocalitos, Cenote Esmeralda, Isla de Pájaros + time for swimming in the lagoon

Continue straight to the next article - Yucatan inlands: our best places

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