8 places not to miss in western Sardinia
In my first article about Sardinia I focused on general info like how to get there, where to rent a car, where to stay and what to taste. I also included our complete itinerary at the end, which I'll go into a bit more detail now. Today we're going to look at places on the west coast of Sardinia that I think you should definitely not miss + the first two tips are more from the southern part, because we were starting from Cagliari and we needed to make more stops along the way :)
I didn't include beaches in this list (they are mentioned only marginally), because we didn't go swimming and my opinion might not be completely objective. However, the beaches in Sardinia are often compared to those in the Caribbean, because they have really light and fine sand, which contrasts sharply with the azure sea. I must confirm that the view is really luxurious!
Now let's get going! Specifically, we start from Hotel Santa Gilla near Cagliari airport, where we spent our first night and which we can only recommend. For €84 we slept comfortably in a quadruple room (parking and welcome drink included) and enjoyed a really rich breakfast in the morning (also included). If the weather had been a bit better, we would have spent some more time at the hotel pool, but it's just not for swimming, so we set off to discover the beauty of the island.
1. Nora
Our first ever stop, and coincidentally the one that was a success with all of us. On the peninsula of Capo di Pula is the archaeological site of the historic town of Nora. It is said to have been the centre of Sardinia in its time, but the remains of the temple, amphitheatre and other buildings still remain. You can check them out with a self-guided tour for €8 per adult. The advantage is that from here you can enjoy beautiful views of the Torre del Coltellazzo o di Sant'Efisio and the lagoon. At the entrance you will find a bar where you can refill your liquids or get some of that ice cream.
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You will definitely park at Parcheggio Nora beach & lagoon (google maps), it won't let you go any further. There is no charge in low season, otherwise prepare 1€/hour. But once you've parked, be sure to run to the adjacent Spiaggia di Nora beach. Nina liked it here a lot :)
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2. Chia-Teulada
A stretch of road with beautiful views of the coastline and also many beaches where you can stop for a rest. The most famous ones are Spiaggia Su Giudeo and Spiaggia di Cala Cipolla. Another way to explore this part of Sardinia could be to take a boat trip. You can find a lot of offers on Google, it's up to you what schedule and length of cruise suits you.
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After this ride we stop at the playground and roll towards our second accommodation B&B Del Viale, which is looked after by the friendly Claudia, who speaks perfect English and gives you lots of tips on what to see in the area or where to eat - we definitely recommend Pizzeria Nerone, excellent pizza at a reasonable price. We parked the car in a private courtyard. In total we paid €76 for a triple room with super breakfast.
3. Laveria Lamarmora
The following day we spend in the Sulcis-Iglesiente area, which is very specific due to its mining activity. For many years, this area was attractive for its silver reserves, but later other raw materials such as iron, copper and especially lead, and even later zinc, were added. The biggest mining boom took place in the 19th century, when nearly 10,000 people worked in the mines and tens of kilometres of roads and railways were built to facilitate transport. And today, you can find remnants of the mining industry in the form of abandoned factories, mines, shafts and so on.
One such reminder of wealth and prosperity is Laveria Lamarmora, situated on a hillside above the sea. It is not a mine directly, but a kind of "wash" where the mined ore (specifically lead + zinc) was washed. It was closed down in the 1970s, and now you can go there for a tour too... especially if you like to walk up the stairs :)
Accessibility: enter Giardino belvedere di Nebida in the navigation, where you can leave your car for free. Advantage for families with children - there is also a playground! Oh, and also a great restaurant Oasi, where you can eat at nice prices. From here you simply follow the signs for Passeggiata panoramica di Nebida. Here you will have two options:
- you just need the view from above - you'll walk nicely around the hill on a straight path, and around the Bar 906 Operaio restaurant you'll have the Laveria Lamarmora beautifully below you. All in all, a circle of about 800 metres.
- you go down to the ruins - for this option I recommend using mapy.cz, as they have much better markings than google maps, and after switching to walking mode you can choose the route according to yourself. The advantage is that it can also be designed as a circuit, and even if the navigation doesn't fully take this option into account, you can also go up the stairs. Just count on the fact that there are about 300 of them! But you'll have a fantastic view the whole time, so it's really worth it in my opinion. I was a little worried that the place would be very touristy, but we only passed two people on the way up and down in the morning, which was a very pleasant surprise indeed.
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4. Porto Flavia
The tour takes about 50 minutes and be sure to book in advance on the official website here. Standard adult admission comes in at €10 and tours in English currently start at 11am, 12pm, 2pm, 4pm and 7pm. Appropriate clothing and footwear, as in no swimsuits, flip flops or heels, should be a given, but I mention that just in case :)
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| Source: Iglesias Turismo - https://www.iglesiasturismo.it/ |
And when you're in these parts, you can also run to the beach of Spiaggia di Masua, which (like Porto Flavio) offers a beautiful view of Pan di Zucchero = Sugar Lobster, in fact the highest rock formation in the Mediterranean (133 m). There is even a ferrata for the connoisseurs!
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From there we head to Cala Domestica beach ( photo below), where Nina falls into some stinky mud and Pepa supposedly rescues her. Hey, I really don't know how it was, but when we arrive with Johnny, they both smell of dead fish for about half a kilometer. Really nasty, unbearable smell that makes you sick to your stomach. For a while we really consider throwing both shoes in a container in the parking lot... it really was that bad! In the end, we "just" wrap them in plastic and then wash and wash and wash and wash all night long in our accommodation Il Vecchioliveto di Ornella. Sorry Mrs. Ornella, we have taken all your soaps and cleaning products :)
Otherwise, we can recommend this B&B - homey atmosphere, animals in the garden, parking in front of the house and a cot for rent. The breakfast was also great, even the savoury one, which is not at all standard in Italy. In total I paid €64 per night with breakfast.
5. San Salvatore di Sinis
We managed to improve the boots so much by morning that it is no longer life threatening to be in the same room with them. However, getting your face close to them (like putting them on Nina, or heaven forbid carrying her by the neck!) is still utopian. Anyway, the whole expedition has something to walk in again, and so we set off to check out a tiny medieval village that doesn't need such good footwear. You can walk through it in just a few dozen minutes.
The whole village is centred around a square and a few essentially indentic streets. All the houses are low and ground-floor, with the maximum difference in colour. The most important building in the square is the church, under which lies a much greater jewel in the form of an underground shrine with a well from the Nuragic period. San Salvatore di Sinis even served for some time as a film set for western movies, supposedly there was a certain resemblance to the American Arizona... well I don't know, but this place is definitely worth a stop.
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6. Tharros
And since San Salvatore was a really short stop, we continue to the peninsula of San Giovanni di Sinis, where the village of the same name and the archaeological site of Tharros are located. By car, you'll drive to the sprawling parking lot (no charge in low season), and either walk to the entrance or take a ride on the tourist train. Along the way, you'll pass two restaurants and wooden steps leading to the beach. At the gate you can still refresh yourself with a drink, coffee or a popsicle in the bar, or buy some souvenirs. The basic entrance fee to the archaeological site is €9 for an adult + various combinations with the museum/tower, see the website here.
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In the end, we choose an alternative program and go for a walk on the outskirts of Capo S. Marco. We pass the entrance and continue straight ahead, with the Tharros on our left and the Torre spagnola di San Giovanni di Sinis tower towering above us on our right (it is possible to walk up to it). The road is no longer paved or asphalted, just dirt, but the views from here are really nice. How far you go is of course up to you.
7. Bosa
On our departure, we drive to Is Arutas beach (other famous beaches in this area are Putzu Idu or Is Arenas) and end the day in the pleasant and colourful town of Bosa. Its landmark is the 12th-century Castello Malaspina, but I'd definitely consider a walk along the Temo River, on whose slopes these colourful houses stand, to be the absolute best experience.
The centre itself is definitely worth exploring too, plus of course sitting down with some goodies. The old town isn't particularly huge (totally fine with kids), but the local streets are really watchable. If you're in the mood for pizza, we'd definitely recommend Strapizzami - huge selection, great prices, and tastes delicious.
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Accommodation Bosa - I chose the B&B I Gerani apartment near the centre, where you could park for free and everything was within walking distance. We paid €72 per night with a pretty good breakfast. If you fancy something different, check out my other tips:
- Cheaper: La terrazza del Sole Guest House - great rated private rooms for about €64
- More expensive: Domo 'e sa rosa - a lovely hotel right in the streets of the old town, or very similar to Palazzo Pischedda with parking
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8. Butterfly House
And finally, one place chosen more for Koblize than for us, but I have to say that there were quite a few childless adults here. The Butterfly House near Sassari has the advantage of keeping everyone entertained. The first part of the exhibit is educational, some of it a bit sensory oriented. Then comes the butterfly pavilion itself , where you walk through a tropical greenhouse and see multicoloured butterflies circling all around you. You can also check out their hatchery, which is quite an interesting spectacle. The last part of the Butterfly House is relaxing and includes: a bar/restaurant, a swimming pool with sun loungers, picnic tables and a large children's playground. The rose garden is still open in season and they are currently adding glamping accommodation.
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The parking lot is large and free, we paid 12€/person to get in (children under 4 don't pay) and we had access to the exposition, greenhouse, pool and playground. I honestly have no idea what the admission amounts are in season, as the official website looks outdated and their price list is from 2022.
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We'll stop here for today and in the last article from Sardinia you can find out where to stop on the way from Castelsardo back to Cagliari. If this information has helped you save some time or money or both, you can perhaps "invite me for a coffee" and contribute to the running of the Vorvana :) account number / QR code: 1257951017/3030
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