Isle of Skye: practical info + TOP trips

I think that after the previous two articles about Scotland - 8 days wandering Scotland and Our tour of Scotland day by day, you have at least a small idea of what you can expect here. The Isle of Skye is the largest and most northerly of the Inner Hebrides archipelago and is considered a kind of Scottish jewel, where you'll find even more beautiful and wilder nature than in the mainland Highlands. Personally, I've had the Isle of Skye on my dream destination list for several years and now I can finally confirm that it's definitely worth a visit. Whether you're a seasoned hillwalker, a casual walker who prefers to stop at viewpoints, or a lover of sights and history, you'll find something to do here anyway.

How much time to spend there?

...difficult to answer. We spent 3 full days and 3 nights on the island , and you could say I consider that the minimum necessary. There are a great many places to explore and trek, so you definitely don't have to worry about getting bored. The second thing: it will take you some time to get here, so it seems pointless to me to go just "for a spin". And the third reason why more days rather than less: the weather is very very unpredictable, just like on the mainland, so just for the chance to enjoy the local nature without rain, storms, etc., I would opt for a multi-day stay just to be safe.

How to get there?

I would like to start by pointing out that in earlier articles you will only read about one option, namely the ferry leaving Mallaig for Armadale. Basically from Glenfinnan viaduct you would have to continue on the road. This route of course still operates and full information on prices and timetables can be found on the official website here. To give you an idea a car and two people works out at around £17. But it's not the only way to get to the Isle of Skye.

Since 1995, the Skye Bridge has also provided a link from the south-eastern side of the island . For many years it was the subject of controversy over the collection and especially the amount of tolls (probably why people preferred the ferry). The situation was only resolved in 2004 when the bridge was bought by the state and the tolls were abolished completely. So now you can get from the mainland Kyle of Lochalsh to the Isle of Skye completely free of charge.

Where to stay?

The most important thing on this point - DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE IT! Don't wait for anything and book your accommodation right after your tickets, as soon as you decide on the dates of your trip. In short, definitely don't delay, because although it may seem like there is plenty of accommodation on the Isle of Skye, it fills up really fast. Most are even booked X months in advance. To give you an example, I entered the dates I wanted on the booking engine and three results came up: 1) a hostel with a 6.0 rating, 2) some private luxury for €1120, 3) a room in a family house with a non-refundable reservation. We had to take the last option because there was simply no other option. Even a little fiddling with dates or shortening our stay didn't help, everything was hopelessly sold out.

Specifically, our accommodation was called An Cladach and we spent 3 nights there. It was a cozy, clean room with private bathroom, rented by Mrs. Flora in a house built right on a quiet bay. It included a TV, fridge, kettle + prepared fruit, yoghurt and some sweets. We were able to use the beautiful garden and the small Kobliha as well as the trampoline, football goals and slide. Flora had sent very detailed info before check-in describing the way to the house and added lots of tips for excursions and interesting places. It's close to everywhere on the island, so the location is totally cool and we can recommend this accommodation with a clear conscience. We paid €368 / 3 nights.

In general, on the Isle of Skye , expect higher prices for hotels, hostels, guesthouses compared to the mainland. Location-wise, most people tend to go around the main town of Portree because of the largest concentration of restaurants and also the largest COOP supermarket on the island (the other smaller one is in the southeast in Broadford, there aren't many more). In the context of Portree, though, make sure your accommodation includes parking, because otherwise there are parking zones everywhere in town, and you won't pay for that. In general, though, the places of interest on the Isle of Skye are scattered all over the place, so either way you'll be close to "something" and drive to the rest. There are no hundred-mile crossings, so you won't make the mistake of booking another site, and almost all roads lead to and through Portree anyway :) Accommodation tips on the Isle of Skye for me as follows:

• cheaper: Greshornish House Hotel - very nice accommodation with prices from €108/night depending on the type of room or Taigh Scalpaigh near Portree for about €120 with breakfast
  
• more expensive: Sligachan Hotel - a modern hotel in the southern part of the island or very stylish rooms in Ullinish House, where the minimum stay is 2 nights

What to see on the Isle of Skye?

A) SOUTH

1. Eilean Donan Castle - This place isn't officially part of the Isle of Skye, but it's probably a stop for everyone who comes to the island. It is one of the most profane and photogenic castles in Scotland. It lies on a small island in Loch Duich, connected to the mainland only by a stone footbridge, which let's face it, looks really good in the photos.

Practical: you leave your car in the car park on the shore, there are parking meters available for £3 for 2 hours. Before you walk to the bridge itself, you can grab a bite to eat at the kiosk with outdoor seating offering mainly burgers and fish and chips, or then at the cafeteria down the road. If you want to cross the bridge to the castle, you'll need to get a ticket. All the information can be found on the official website here, however in real life there is still an option of an outdoor walk only (no access to the castle interiors) for £3 per adult, which we took advantage of so we didn't have to unnecessarily drag Doughnut inside for a tour.

2. Sligachan Bridge - can serve as a short stop for a cuddle, or you can stretch your legs with a walk. In real life, Sligachan is just a hotel with a restaurant and playground, a campsite and the biggest attraction for passing tourists - the stone Old Sligachan Bridge with a beautiful view of the Cuillin Mountains. The area is a very popular destination for climbers and other mountain enthusiasts, said to be the only one in the UK to resemble the Alps or the Tatras, though of course you'd be hard pressed to find such altitudes here. Since 2020, there has also been a memorial just a short distance from the bridge, with statues of John MacKenzie and John Norman Collie, both of whom are associated with local mountaineering history.

3. Fairy Pools - about 25 minutes drive from Sligachan Bridge is another place that can't complain about the influx of tourists. For my taste, there were a lot of them. Presumably the locals have noticed this interest too, so expect to pay parking fees, specifically £6 per car.

Here's the deal. There's a fairly easy walk along the river, which creates various cascades and natural pools in the valley. You'll arrive at the first waterfalls from the car park in about a quarter of an hour, and then it's up to you how far you go, as you'll be returning the same way either way. And an added bonus for hardy people - you can even take a dip here!

B) WEST

1. Dunvegan Castle - a very beautiful preserved castle and large manicured gardens, for me this was a very pleasant morning. There is no charge for parking here, as it is the type of castle you can't see from the road or car park. So you have to pay an entrance fee of £16 (even with the interior tour) and then walk a nice little way to it, or you can get an entrance fee for just the gardens for £14, but that's not such a dramatic difference. Full list of opening times and admission prices on the official website here.

You can also add to your visit to the castle with a sealboat trip to the seal colony. The boats leave from the moorings below the castle and the cost is £12 for an adult, £9 for a child (under 5s nothing). We didn't take the seal ride, but we did see a few from the vantage point of the picnic tables above the dock.

2. Coral Beach - I have to admit, I had no idea there were any white beaches in Scotland. Well, I was wrong :) The advantage is the fact that you have to walk to Coral beach, which means it's not very crowded. Specifically, it is about half an hour brisk walk in one direction.

On the other hand, we have had a bad experience with parking in these parts, as the parking lot there has a relatively small capacity (but it's free). In this case, all it takes is one stupid person to block X other cars from coming and going at the same time. So... good luck and steady nerves when parking! You'll enjoy the walk itself afterwards because the path is relaxed, there's nowhere to get lost and people disperse quietly so you don't have to walk in any crowds.

3. Neist Point Lighthouse - at the westernmost point of the Isle of Skye lies this lighthouse as another Scottish must see. The place is very attractive for tourists, as the best photos cost you almost no effort. Ironically, the top view of the lighthouse and the surrounding high cliffs is just a few metres from your car, so unless you're keen to walk right up to it, you're definitely not missing out.

Practical - parking here can be a bit of a hassle, but in any case you don't have a chance to miss it, as cars parked on the side of the road stretch for hundreds of metres from the starting point (there is no parking fee). In the summer season, I'd rather not even see it... If you just want to admire the view, take a right, there you will get the most beautiful views. Be careful though, it can get very windy! If you have more time, you can venture down the concrete path leading up to the lighthouse, the total round trip is about 3 km and you could be done in two hours.

C) NORD / EAST

1. Old Man of Storr - if you google Isle of Skye, the first photos will certainly show you a group of pointed rocks. Crowds of people come to see this iconic formation, so don't paint any romantic pictures. Unfortunately, we were caught out by some really nasty weather on the north-east side of the island, where you couldn't see a few metres in front of you, so we decided to skip the trail to Old Man of Storr completely. Who cares though, be prepared to leave your car in the paid parking area by the main road and then do about a 4km hike. I've given the total number of km, but of course expect a hill on the way there.

Source: Countryfile - https://www.countryfile.com/go-outdoors/walks/old-man-of-storr-isle-of-skye/

2. Lealt Falls - waterfalls with its own unpaid parking right by the road, so such a nice rest stop. There is also an observation deck, but I have to admit that the view of the falls didn't impress me all that much. A better view was then a few dozen yards further down towards the coast.

3. Rubha nam Brathairean - or Brothers point, where you park again on the main road, this time in the village of Culnacnoc. From here you follow the path past the churchyard and sheep pasture until you reach the info sign where the trail starts. Note: don't be put off by the closed gates - you can walk through, just remember to close them again behind you. All in all, you're looking at 3.6km of walking and what's the best thing about this place? It's not too fancy, so you won't be pushing your way through the crowd. And as an added bonus, besides the beautiful views, you can also see dinosaur footprints on the shoreline. Alternatively, they have more millions of years old footprints a little further down the beach at Staffin.

Source: Earth Trekkers - https://www.earthtrekkers.com/rubha-nam-brathairean-isle-skye-hidden-treasure/

4. Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls viewpoint - in May 2023 the car park was completely closed for reconstruction, so unfortunately we had to unfortunately miss this view of the steep rocks reminiscent of a Scottish kilt and the waterfall flowing down from them. How long the situation will last, I have no idea. In any case, it is a short stop and you won't get tired. Park, check it out, take a picture, move on. To give you an idea of the photo view, something like this:

Source: highlands2hammocks - https://highlands2hammocks.co.uk/kilt-rock-mealt-falls-isle-of-skye/

5. Quiraing - the unique basalt walls of the Trotternish Ridge mountain range, again a much visited site but often hidden under a layer of mist. And our visit was no different. Due to the weather situation (fog, rain + strong winds) we were content to just look around the car park (pay and display - £3/3 hrs, £5/6 hrs). With any luck, the 6.5km Quiraing loop, which would have taken us past some of the best rock formations (most famously The Needle), was on the cards. I honestly regretted skipping this trek more than the Old Man of Storr itself. Time wise it should take you some 2-3 hours, depending on how you rest/photograph.

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6. Fairy Glen - the last place I chose for this article literally means fairy valley. These are oddly shaped green hills and cliffs, the most prominent of which is Castle Ewan. It's not really a castle just a rock formation, but it's true that it does resemble a ruin from a distance. Underneath there is still a kind of magical spiral made of stones, which adds to the atmosphere of this special place. There is no entrance fee here, but parking fees do - £2/2 hrs, £3/4 hrs, however an hour will comfortably be enough to visit.

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