The very first stop of our Italian roadtrip was Lago di Garda, which is the largest lake in Italy with its more than 50 km long and 17 km wide. It's right under the Italian Alps, and if it weren't largely surrounded by high mountains, you'd feel like you were at the seaside here - mild climate, beaches, clear water and services of all kinds. So it's not entirely surprising that Lake Garda has become a favourite holiday destination not only for Italians, but also for many Czechs.
It is especially attractive for sports-minded individuals, as it provides ideal conditions and facilities for many activities - cycling, windsurfing, hiking, climbing, rollerblading and paragliding. But you certainly don't have to cycle or walk dozens of kilometres a day to enjoy the place. For some, the lake itself will be enough to relax, while others will prefer to hike around the area, in short, there is something for everyone.
In the end we spent three days and three nights at Lago di Garda. It's not a lot, but we did more than enough in such a short time, and who knows, maybe we'll come back sometime :) The problem was that whoever I asked about their personal experience of the place, they were all able to name only Monte Baldo = a 2218m high peak, to which you are taken by a special rotating cable car. Strange that the vast majority of individuals are only able to remember the viewpoint, which they take their ass up in the cable car, take a picture there and then go back down again. But since everyone was talking about it, I thought I'd take my own picture... Until, of course, we couldn't even park at the boarding point and I saw one XX meter long line for tickets and another equally long line for the cable car itself. With Kobliha, waiting in line for hours just for the (crowd) prospect? I can't believe it, so these places became alternative agenda items for us:
1. Lago di Tenno
Just above Garda is another much smaller and somewhat neglected lake - Lago di Tenno. At first glance, it catches your eye with its incredibly blue surface and a small island in the middle; at second glance, you'll discover that it can even be circumnavigated. Unfortunately, we were caught in a torrential downpour here, so we didn't finish the tour, but still in dry clothes we managed to do what we came here for - a walk to the village of CANALE.
The full name in Italian is Borgo Medievale di Canale and it is a wonderfully preserved medieval village that will absolutely enchant you with its cobbled narrow streets, wooden shutters and balconies with lots of flowers. The main advantage is the fact that this place is not in any way touristy, we really only met a handful of people here. Accessibility: you can't drive into the village of Canale, so the easiest way to get there is to park at Lago di Tenno - there's a parking lot at the Club Hotel for €2/hour. From there, follow the signposted path towards Ville del Monte/Canale for about 2km. The terrain is not difficult, we walked it even with a sports stroller.
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2. Varone waterfalls
Actually, it's just one waterfall, but not just any waterfall, it's right in the rock. The water comes here through a system of underground springs from Lago di Tenno via the Magnonne river. You can see the waterfall in action thanks to the illuminated viewing paths in the Parco Grotta Cascata Varone, where you can see the beautiful gardens in addition to the waterfall. They even have a Japanese section, which is a little bit of a pet peeve of mine, but I ended up being most impressed with the little pineapples anyway! :)
Accessibility: parking is free for park visitors, and a separate entrance fee comes to €6 per adult, which doesn't seem dramatic to me. You'd better bring a raincoat or waterproof jacket, as the water splashes against the rocks and really splashes in all directions. Alternatively, you can get a raincoat for a few pennies at the ticket office. As for the kids, I'd leave the stroller at home in this case, a carrier would definitely be a better choice.
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3. Ponte Tibetano
If you're not afraid of heights, check out this 34-metre-long suspension bridge. It only opened in August 2019, so it is a relatively new "attraction" and probably not many people know about it yet, as we didn't encounter any crowds of tourists. Or maybe it's because you have to walk a bit to get to it :) Ponte Tibetano is located on the hiking trail connecting the villages of Crero and Pai, so you can choose your starting point as you wish.
We left our car in the town of Pai at the free parking lot, which you can find on google maps under the name Parking Ponte Tibetano. From there you have about a kilometer climb up a paved road, which gradually disappears and turns into a beaten path. There is a fine view of the Garda and you will not get lost here. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the bridge, it's nothing drastic.
4. Malcesine
The city you type into your sat nav when you want a view from Monte Baldo. It is from here that the mentioned panoramic cable car leaves - official website here, but beware, it is not the only attraction here. Feel free to go here even if you don't plan to go up, I would just recommend avoiding the parking lots in the centre (and by the cable car) as they tend to be really crowded. We left our car at Parcheggio Paina and walked to the centre in a few minutes along the lakeside promenade, with a great view of the castle to boot.
Malcesine offers a pleasant stroll in the shady streets full of ice cream parlours and shops selling olive oil, pasta, soaps and other souvenirs.
The Castello Scaligero is the dominant feature of the town, but without paying the entrance fee (€6, more info
here) you can only see it from the outside, you can't even get into the courtyard.
5. Riva del Garda + Ponale trail
In the northern part of the lake = North Lake lies the town of Riva del Garda, which for many people is an ideal starting point for excursions or sporting activities. Riva has a pretty historic centre with many squares lined with restaurants and bars, the most famous of which is probably the colourful Piazza 3 Novembre. Nearby you can see the Rocca di Riva water fortress, and if you look above the town you can see a small castle (more like a tower) - the Bastione, which can even be reached by panoramic lift, info here.
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But more interesting than Riva del Garda was the old path called Strada del Ponale, which connects Riva with the Valle di Ledro and from which you can enjoy spectacular views of the lake. It's even said to be one of the most beautiful historic panoramic roads in Europe. What's more, since 2004 the Ponale Road has been pedestrian and cyclist-only - cars drive through long, modern tunnels in the rocks below. The whole route is just over 10km long, and from what we've seen, most people cycle it. If you go here, I also recommend checking out the very large anti-aircraft fortress La Tagliata del Ponale. TIP: You can park for free at the power station (Centrale idroelettrica), but spaces are limited.
6. Arco
Castello di Arco, a few kilometres above Riva del Garda, will catch your eye from afar. The castle looks down like a bird of prey from a high limestone cliff on the town of the same name. The adjacent botanical gardens, which contain the oldest redwood trees in Europe, are also frequently visited. Admission to the castle costs an adult €3, but there is no charge for the gardens. The first photo is unfortunately not mine, I couldn't take a photo from a distance and the photos of the castle from the town don't stand out at all... but at least for an idea :)
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| Source: Foppoli Morreta
- https://www.foppolimoretta.it/en/gallery/towers-and-castles/arco-castle-arco-di-trento-inspection-94/#thumbs-2
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7. Nago-Torbole viewpoints
The town of Torbole can be found right next to Riva del Garda, and Nago is just above it. Thanks to its location, there are several viewpoints where you can enjoy the view of Lake Garda. I'll mention just a few of them. The first one is just off the Strada Statale 240 road from Torbole to Nago - on google maps as Panorama sul Garda (or type in Marmitte dei Giganti). Quite a few cars stop here, so don't expect any echt romance, but the view is really nice. You'll even see the Sacra river, which flows directly into Lago di Garda. You can get a very similar panorama from Punto panoramico sul Lago di Garda (or enter Belvedere-Nago) - this viewpoint is on the road from Nago towards Arco.
The last place was a bit of a detour and a walk, but on the other hand, we walked through the vineyards and we were completely alone. This time you would have searched in vain on google maps, but on mapy.cz type in Dos Tenim and that's it :)
8. Madonna della Corona
A church pressed against a rock, you've probably seen it in a photo somewhere, you just might not have known that this gem is located in Italy, just outside Lago di Garda. At first glance, this sanctuary looks almost inaccessible, but... the opposite is true. The Santuario Madonna della Corona was built in the Monte Baldo area at 744 metres above sea level back in the 13th century - it really wasn't very accessible then. There was only a very steep path leading to it from the bottom, so pilgrims had to work up quite a sweat. For those who are interested, this pilgrimage trail, Sentiero del Pellegrino, is still available - it leads from the village of Brentino and there are lots of steps :)
Fortunately, there is an even easier option for those who can't spare a whole day for this trip. The church has been made accessible from the top over the centuries, and it has remained so to this day. All you need is to get to the village of Spiazzi. There's no parking fee here (at the Alimentari), so you go straight for the "Madonna della Corona" signs and even have a choice. You can either take the tarmac road along which the Stations of the Cross are displayed = la via crucis, or run down the steps, which is a bit quicker, but you lose a large part of the Stations of the Cross. In about 10-15 minutes you will arrive at a rock tunnel through which you will pass directly into the church complex. There is another option for the less mobile - at the car park, get on shuttle bus 499 and be taken almost to the tunnel. It departs every half hour and a return ticket costs €3.
9. Sirmione
Sirmione is such a gem of Lake Garda, a visit is almost a must. Or so it would seem, given the crowds we saw here. Anyway... Sirmione lies on a small peninsula in the southern part of Lago di Garda and offers a whole host of attractions. The biggest one is the medieval Castello di Sirmione, which will be the first thing you see in Sirmione. Another important historical monument are the remains of the Roman villa Grotte di Catullo, or Catullo's Cave. It's a huge complex situated at the northernmost tip of the peninsula. Admission for an adult costs €8, more info here. Directly below this archaeological gem lies the popular beach - Jamaica Beach. Don't expect sand here though, it's on big rocks :)
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| Source: Secret World
- https://sworld.co.uk/02/300768/photoalbum/jeskyn%C4%9B-catullus
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If you're only visiting Sirmione for a few hours, you'll probably be satisfied just walking the streets, browsing the local shops and sampling the gelato. For those with more time on their hands, a visit to the thermal baths for which Sirmione is renowned can be arranged. You have the choice of either Terme Virgilio or Terme Catullo. Or... stay directly at a spa hotel - Grand Hotel Terme, Hotel Sirmione or Hotel Acquaviva del Garda.
When you arrive, beware of parking, as the entrance to the historic centre is forbidden to ordinary people, so expect that the walk may take a little longer... and, of course, more expensive. For the record, we paid €7.50 for 2.5 hours at Parcheggio Monte Baldo.
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10. Verona
The very last place I chose was Verona, which is only half an hour drive from Lago di Garda. Moreover, we arrived here on a Sunday, which made it possible to park for free in the blue zones. Yay, a few euros saved. Unfortunately, that was the end of our luck for the day. Unfortunately, there were huge crowds of people everywhere, which we probably would have survived somehow, but within an hour or so it started raining like crazy and Kobliha was in such a great mood that she couldn't stand wearing a raincoat on her carriage... in fact, she couldn't even stand the carriage. Well, not great...
So what did we get done? Check out the third largest amphitheatre in the world, which still hosts opera performances. You'll find it in Piazza Bra, lined with plenty of shops and restaurants, but equally interesting squares include Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori. Around them is a tangle of alleyways, but honestly, I was so annoyed by the crowds that I didn't really enjoy it. A special chapter is what everyone comes to Verona for - Juliet's balcony. It's located in the Casa di Giulietta, where you have to pay to get in, and yet there are long lines waiting to take pictures of that balcony and the bronze statue of the imaginary girl. No Juliet Capulet ever lived here, but it's against taste... and queues... However, the historic centre of the city has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, so Verona certainly doesn't suffer from the lack of tourist interest, with or without the balcony.
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Lago di Garda: where to stay?
As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, we spent a total of three nights at Lago di Garda, so from my own experience I can recommend two accommodations. I chose
Albergo Villa Mimosa mainly because of its convenient location in Nago-Torbole with good access to places of interest, and also because of its affordable price. A night in a double room with balcony here came to about €68 including parking and breakfast.
When choosing a second accommodation I wanted to take into account the distance from Sirmione and Verona, so the choice fell on
Pensione Mercedes. The owners are very nice and the rooms are properly furnished. Parking is free in the courtyard and the breakfast here is absolutely fabulous by Italian standards! Sirmione can be reached in 10 minutes and if you are the swimming type, the beach is a 2 minute walk away. If you have other ideas about accommodation, try checking out our other tips:
- more expensive: if you're looking for luxury in the form of great food and wellness, check out the Park Hotel Imperial in the north or Hotel Caesius in the south
That's it for Lago di Garda for today, you can check out more articles from our Tuscany roadtrip here:
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