TOP 12 places in Warsaw

Warsaw was never my dream destination, but the fact that we took our first flight here with our Donut made it an absolutely unforgettable destination. And Warsaw itself did not disappoint us at all during the long weekend... and it certainly won't disappoint you. Whether you enjoy exploring history, museums, parks, or just strolling around the city and cafe-hopping, either way, you've come to the right place!

Flight with a child - who is not interested, skips the following points :) 

• A ticket with Ryanair costs €25 one way for a child under two, which means that Nina had the most expensive ticket. For a return for ourselves we pay €16/person. You didn't think children travel for free, did you? :) 

• BUT the price includes the transport of two pieces of baby equipment: stroller, car seat, booster seat or travel cot + bag for a child up to 5 kg. We only take the stroller, which we take to the gate, where we fold it into a bag marked with a Ryanair label and drop it off at the collection point by the front steps of the plane. At the same place, we find it again at the destination airport, even in one piece.

• When going through security, the stroller must be emptied (= baby in arms + contents of stroller on belt) and folded to pass the scanner. Baby's luggage is allowed to contain liquids - baby water, thermos, pouches, snacks etc, they just put it in a special box for you. Supposedly you can even be asked to taste the contents.

• In general, Nina handled it pretty cool. I was a little worried about her ears hurting, so she got a bottle of milk on takeoff and landing, and she certainly didn't seem to be in any pain. The bigger issue was how to keep her entertained and even on the piddy seat. The donut doesn't last longer than a few seconds, fortunately a lot of time was taken up by pissing crisps, so in the end we managed to fight with that too.

Warsaw Modlin

Or the tax for a cheap ticket with Ryanair = their planes quite often arrive at the airport to some "Upper Lower", where the transport to the centre costs 2x as much as the ticket itself. But in this case it's not such a drama. Transportation from Modlin takes about an hour and costs 19 zlotys one way (about €4.4), see Koleje Mazowieckie, stop Airport Modlin. Just beware, the first part of the journey is by bus, after about 10 minutes you change to the train. No need to worry, it's a nice connection and the trains are clean and modern. Plus, the price of this ticket includes a 75 minute journey on Warsaw's public transport, so you can still get somewhere close. The other option would be the Flixbus, but it doesn't run as often and is a bit more expensive.

Due to our arrival in the evening, we did not want to tempt Donut's mood any further, and instead chose to stay overnight in Modlin, specifically Apartament Modlin located within walking distance from the airport. Self check-in is done via codes and the apartment has absolutely everything you could possibly need - from cosmetics, board games, Netflix, candles, iron, washing machine, and a fully equipped kitchen. For €52/night a great choice.

If you also have some time in Modlin, I recommend checking out the monstrous Twierdza Modlin fortress, which is one of the largest military structures in Europe. It lies at the confluence of the Vistula and Narva rivers, and is partially open to the public. Historical and current info can be found on the official website here. We didn't go inside because it was closed, but to give you an idea, at least some photos from the outside.

12 places not to miss in Warsaw

1. Old town - Surprisingly enough, we'll start with the most famous one; no one leaves Warsaw without walking these cobbled streets. You're also sure to come across the deep red brick walls, which include the beautiful historic Barbican Gate. Both Old Town and Castle Square are lined with typical colourful houses with many cafes and traditional Polish restaurants that had outdoor seating open even in November. 

At first glance, no one can tell that the buildings are not original. In fact, the old town was bombed by the German army twice during World War II (1939 and 1944). After the end of the war, restoration began, using all available material from the original buildings. In 1980, the work of the restorers was recognised by the inscription of the Warsaw historical center on the UNESCO list of monuments, and deservedly so.

2. Royal castle - is located right at the entrance to the Old Town, so it is virtually impossible to miss it. Today, Krolewski Castle is even open to the public as a museum and gallery. Sightseeing tours include both the representative and private chambers, opening hours including entrance fees can be found on the official website. If you don't feel like going inside, I recommend at least checking out the beautifully landscaped, and free to enter, Royal Gardens.

3. POLIN - Museum of the History of Polish Jews - I have to say that this was one of the most interesting museums ever for me. It's not just focused on WWII and the Holocaust as you might expect, although there is a large section devoted to that as well. In fact, POLIN documents the history of the Jews in Poland from the very beginning, and in great detail in an attempt to cover all aspects of life. We spent almost three hours here, and we more or less just ran through some of the halls. If you want to go through it really thoroughly, with reading all the texts and trying out the interactive elements, it's going to be a full day affair. Anyway, the whole exhibit is very nicely done, and definitely worth a visit. 

Entrance fee comes to 30 PLN and of course you can pay by card, more info here. In conclusion, let me give you two tips: from a practical point of view with a small child, I recommend a baby carrier (you can leave the stroller in the cloakroom) and the second thing - definitely try the local restaurant offering Jewish specialties. For example, such a sweet roll stuffed with nuts was absolutely luxurious. Yum!

4. Boarders of the Warsaw ghetto - we'll stay on the Jewish theme for a while. The infamous Warsaw Ghetto was established in 1940 and gradually the Germans herded almost half a million Jews into it. The area grew smaller and smaller, and eventually it was walled off. If you have seen, for example, the film The Pianist starring Adrien Brody, you have a pretty clear idea of the appalling conditions in which people were forced to live here. From 1942 onwards, there were settlement operations here, in which Jews were sent to concentration camps, from which most never returned. If you would like to find out more information, run directly to the Warsaw Ghetto Museum.

Even now, as you walk through Warsaw, you will come across many reminders of the ghetto's existence - memorials, plaques, remnants of walls and the original borders. If you want to search for these places specifically, type Fragment of Ghetto wall, Ghetto wall remnant or Warsaw ghetto boundary markers into google maps.

5. Lazienki -  the only place we used Warsaw's public transport to visit, namely a bus for 4.40 PLN for a 75-minute ride. Lazienki Krolowskie is located in the outskirts of Warsaw, on the left bank of the Vistula River. Originally, there was a spa here, but in the 18th century it was converted into a lavish palace. Over time, the area grew more and more and other buildings were added, such as a theatre, an orangery or a hunting lodge. 

The central building of the Palace on the Wyspie is now surrounded by an artificial lake and a very nice and well-kept park with lots of paths. Oh, and lots of squirrels, which apparently the locals (especially families with children) spoil with treats. The park is free to enter, you only have to pay admission to the palace - info on prices and opening times can be found here.

6. Palace of culture and science - another palace, but this time it's not a royal residence, but a skyscraper. But again, don't imagine a glassy, glitzy building like somewhere in Dubai. The Palace of Culture and Science was built (completed in 1955) in the style of Soviet socialism, which is obvious at first glance. And actually at a second glance, as it was the "Gift of the Peoples of the Soviet Union" and for a time even bore the name "Joseph Stalin Palace of Culture and Science". 

Until this year, at 237 metres, it was the tallest building in Warsaw. In February 2021, the modern 310-metre Varso Tower took over the top spot, making it the tallest building not only in Posek, but also in the entire European Union. Inside the Palace of Culture and Science you can currently find several museums, theatres, a cinema and an observation deck, so there are quite a few options to accommodate a visit. There are also 45-minute tours for just under €13 (entrance to the terrace included), more info can be found here.

7. University Library Gardens - on the map you can find the library under Biblioteka Uniwersytecka w Warszawie. The appearance of the building itself is certainly impressive - the facade is covered with copper plates with green patina and at the main entrance there is a steel structure from the original book warehouse. This 19th-century bookcase is therefore a symbol of the connection between the past and the present. Where there is no copper, steel or glass, the walls are usually covered in greenery.

But the main attraction for most visitors is the rooftop botanical garden. Just beware of two things - there is a long staircase leading up, there is no elevator here, so count on it in advance and tune your form :) and the second thing, the more important one - only the lower gardens are open during winter (see my photos), opening hours here.

8. Elektrownia Powiśle - it's not very often that I give you a shopping tip, but I'll make an exception here. Elektrownia is located in the Powiśle district, not far from the university library building, so if you're going to visit the gardens, run here as well. There's a restored 100+ year old power station building waiting for you, and plenty of designer shops and restaurants within. The architects have taken care to use original materials and paid attention to every detail. For example, visiting the toilets is an experience in itself, of course in terms of props - old pipes, sinks, switches etc., well I felt like I was in the bathroom at Hogwarts :) I personally really enjoy these industrial spaces, so maybe someone else will be interested in them too.

9. Riverside with a promenade - On the left bank of the Vistula River flowing through Warsaw is a nearly 3 km long promenade with plenty of resting places, restaurants and bars => Bulwary Wiślane. I mean, what are we going to do, in November it's not a big deal when almost everything is closed. But in the summer it must be a really cool walk, or bike, scooter, skate...

10. Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - like other European cities, Warsaw has this symbolic place of remembrance. Grób Nieznanego Żołnierza is located in the ruins of the former Saxon Palace, which was unfortunately demolished by the Nazis during World War II. This is the only part that has been preserved and is now located in the Saxon Park (Ogród Saski), which is a great place to take a walk or relax.

11. ZOO -  this wasn't exactly our priority, but we had a little time left before we left and the Warsaw Zoo suited our needs thanks to its location right in the city center. We had a nice walk from the hotel and then continued by train from the "Warsawa Zoo" stop back to Modlin airport.

You may have heard of the Warsaw Zoo in connection with the names of the Zabinskis, who sheltered hundreds of Jews and resistance fighters in abandoned rooms and cages during the Nazi oppression. This story was also made into a film and I can only recommend it - Shelter in the Zoo. Today you can see elephants, giraffes, rhinos, cheetahs, polar bears, seals, otters and much more. Some of the pavilions and enclosures look new and tidy, some are obviously still waiting to be renovated. Interested visitors can also visit the Zabinsky Villa, but beware, only by prior reservation. Admission itself is priced at 30 PLN in high season (April to September), and only 20 PLN in low season, plus 5 PLN for entry to the villa if you want. More practical information is available on the official website here.

12. Traugutta Fortress - the only place we had in our sights, but unfortunately we didn't get a chance to visit it. Traugutta was part of the huge Warsaw Fortress complex, 29 buildings in total. If you are interested in this topic, you would find the whole list written down e.g. on Wikipedia. Just briefly: the Citadel was the first to be built in the first half of the 19th century, and then more and more parts of the strategic defence zone, bunkers and barracks were added. Traugutta was built in the centre of Warsaw (= inner ring of forts) as an artillery tower and was originally called Aleksiej. Not far from it you can see the remains of the Citadel itself and the Legionów Fortress. Lots of interesting information and photos here, or you can find the Traugutta Fortress website here.

Source: Forty - https://www.forty.waw.pl/index.php/twierdza-warszawa/forty-cytadeli-warszawskiej/321-fort-aleksieja-traugutta#gallery20dd45d011-2

Where to stay in Warsaw?

I'll start with where we stayed - Hotel Tulip Residences Warsaw Targowa. It is located in the Praga district, from which you can reach the centre in a few minutes - we walked and even then it was only a few minutes :) The second plus point is definitely the super breakfast - very rich, constantly replenished, plus a highchair as a symbol of a peaceful breakfast for everyone... at least for us. The main reason I chose Tulip Residences, however, was the offer of modern suites, oh, and the crib rental.  In short, seeing the living room and bedroom separately made the decision in the end, and for €68/apartment/night including breakfast I would stay here again without a second thought. But if you have different ideas about accommodation, check out the other tips:

• cheaper: if you want an unusual experience and want to save money, you can try Kapsula Hostel, where you can stay for €20/capsule/night. I had a nice refreshing of memories of Japan and their capsule hotels :) or LoftHotel with a very unusual decoration, priced at about €40/night for a double room.

• medium: my back-up plan was ibis Styles Warszava City - ibis-like design room with extra and excellent breakfast for €60/night, or well rated SleepWell Apartments - beautiful stylish rooms with similar prices as Ibis.

• luxury: if you're looking for an apartment, check out Glam Apartments or Exclusive Aparthotel. For a hotel, I'd look at PURO Warszava or Nobu Hotel, which you definitely won't go wrong with.

foto from the University Library Gardens

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