What to do in Seville: 10 tips + trip to Córdoba

ledna 15, 2023


The main goal of this trip was to get away before Christmas to somewhere warm, at least somewhere where the temperatures don't stay around zero, there is no snow, or darkness for most of the day. But we're pretty overloaded with those classic European weekend getaways, so I started looking for lesser known places and I have to say this was a masterpiece. Seville, the capital of Andalusia, definitely has a lot to offer - from historic buildings listed by UNESCO, to walks in landscaped parks, shopping and most importantly, tasting all sorts of things because Spanish cuisine is simply yum!

And what did I think was the coolest thing about Seville? They have very nice, clean, playgrounds right in the centre. I understand, for those who don't have kids, this info totally sucks, and maybe even for you parents it seems like a total triviality, but in Pilsen, for example, slides and playgrounds are mostly only in the residential parts of the city. But then when you go to the city for a coffee, you just can't connect it with a swing. Anyway, it's just a little thing that caught my eye :) Now let's get into some of the details. We spent a total of five days in Seville, during which time we really got to walk all over the place, plus a day in nearby Córdoba.




Flights


There is a direct flight from Prague to Seville as of 2023 (Ryanair). We flew from Nuremberg, plus some people may also find it convenient to fly from Vienna. 

The disadvantage of this route was very early morning departures, e.g. our connection started at 5:45. On the other hand, Donut then slept most of the three-hour flight, so in the final analysis good. Plus another advantage was the fact that we also had a complete arrival day in Seville. As for the price of the tickets, summing up for the three of us I paid €159 (= €53/person), while Nina popvé had her own seat, so her ticket cost the same as ours.


Parking in Nuremberg - we have been using Easy Airport Parking for several times now, mainly because of the walking distance to the terminal. We choose an uncovered, self-service car park (on google maps as SmartParken P12) where you just enter a code when you enter, which you receive after booking online. For 6 days of parking we pay €44.




Transportation from airport


If you don't want to take a taxi, there aren't many other options, as there is only one bus service to the centre = EA (Especial aeropuerto). It is run by TUSSAM, which offers discounted daily and three-day passes in addition to the classic single tickets. More info on their official website here. EA buses stop right outside the terminal, i.e. you get out, walk a few meters to the right and queue there. Everyone who flew in with you will be standing there, so you may have to wait a few dozen minutes for an available connection. 


You can buy a ticket for 4€ either at the window in the airport hall (where there was a queue like a pig, I don't understand why) or at the machine about a meter away (no one was standing there). There were a couple of machines outside as well. A third option is to buy from the driver, which we used for example on the way back to the airport. Count the time to the city center about 40 minutes. The bus stops at a lot of stops, so I recommend finding out where you will be getting off beforehand - picture here, or search on TUSSAM here.




Accommodation


To begin with, our holiday overlapped with two Spanish public holidays, which I had no idea when I bought the tickets. And it didn't really limit us, it's just... the prices for accommodation were much higher than on other days, even though I booked well in advance. Let's get more specific.

We spent a total of four nights in Seville, three of which were right in the center, which I recommend you do too. You'll have all the sights and attractions close at hand and won't have to research other transportation options. In fact, everywhere is beautifully walkable, or at least for us it was absolutely ideal. As a starting point I chose Hostal Santa Catalina, where a night with a simple breakfast came to €76


I preferred to take the last night before departure near the airport to make sure we would actually get there on time. The classic Ibis didn't disappoint again - Ibis Budget Sevilla Aeropuerto for €60 room/night + a fine breakfast for 5 €/person if you want. The bus stop in the direction of the airport is about a 10 minute walk away, and the bus ride itself takes another ten minutes or so. For the record, if I click on these two accommodations for a month from now, each of them comes out to about 1200,- Kč/night. So advice to you, check the public holidays at your destination :) Other tips for accommodation in Seville as follows:





What to see in Seville?


1) Plaza de Espaňa


I'll start with what I liked the most in Seville - a semicircular palace with a moat spanned by four really nicely decorated bridges. Now what is there to do? First of all, be sure to check out the building itself. It's lined with colourful mosaics depicting historical events from various Spanish provinces, and it's a nice place to sit. Plus, there's often singing and playing in the arcade, so you'll have a cultural insert :) If you're interested in seeing the square from above, you can run up (for free) to take a photo. 



The canal can also be used for boating, which is a bit kitsch, but what the heck... For horse lovers, there are plenty of carriages parked in the square offering rides. You'll see a huge number of horse carriages in Seville in general, but Plaza de España is also one of the main 'horse parks' due to its footfall. As a final point of your visit, I would still recommend a stroll in the adjacent Parque Maria Luisa (Maria Luisa Park), which is a wonderful oasis of tranquillity with its special tropical plants, ponds and gazebos. Oh, and look above you - there are parrots roaming the palm trees :)




2) Real Alcázar


Originally a Moorish fortress, later a very large royal palace, which is still used by the royal family. It includes various courtyards, patios with fountains, elaborate gardens, as well as several indoor exhibitions. Anyway, if you want to see any of this, you'll have to pay the €13.50 entrance fee. Tickets are bought for a certain time slot, and then you will be admitted to the palace according to that time slot. I recommend all ten of you buy them online here on the official website (simply point your mobile phone at the entrance), as there is an endless queue at the local ticket office from perhaps morning till night. 




We were unfortunately a bit unlucky with the weather here and it rained a lot. Inside it didn't really matter, but unfortunately we didn't get to walk in the beautiful gardens, which is a bit disappointing because this is where several scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed. Specifically, Alcázar featured the Martello mansion - the Water Gardens at Dorne.




3) Cathedral of Sevilla


Seville Cathedral was built in the Gothic style and is currently the largest Gothic cathedral in the world (and the 4th largest church in the world). Well it really is huge, you have to see it for yourself. However, there was originally a mosque on this site, of which only the minaret remains, which after some modifications became part of the cathedral as the Giralda Tower. Now, this almost 105-metre high tower is a bit of a hallmark of the entire Cathedral of Our Lady.

Inside you will find several interesting chapels, the royal necropolis and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. However, it has not yet been fully confirmed whether Columbus' remains really lie inside. Admission to the cathedral, including entrance to the Giralda viewpoint, costs €12 (online via the official website here only €11).




4) General Archive of the Indies


The Alcázar, the cathedral and the archives: not only are these three monumental buildings located in the very heart of Seville in close proximity, but they are also UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Archive was founded by Charles III with the ambitious aim of gathering all the information about the Spanish colonies in one place. In practice, you'll find various documents and treaties relating to overseas discoveries, plus the big draw is Columbus' diary. And what you'll love - access to the Archive of the Indiea is free.




5) Jewish quarter Santa Cruz


Something you simply cannot miss when visiting Seville. A quarter intertwined in a tangle of alleys, occasionally interrupted by a small square full of orange trees... and restaurants... and tapas bars... and shops selling all sorts of things. It's terribly peaceful and quiet, and on a hot day the alleys provide shade.




6) Plaza de Toros


The full name is Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla and it is the Royal Bullring, which is still used for these fights. If you want to take a look inside, be prepared for a €10 entrance fee, see the official website here.




7) Torre del Oro


This 36-metre high and very photogenic tower is located right on the banks of the Guadalquivir River. Translated, it means Golden Tower, not because it is golden, but because its walls are said to have cast golden reflections on the river. Formerly part of the city's fortifications and used to defend Alcáraz, it changed its function to a prison, then a treasury, and today houses a small Maritime Museum (Museo Marítimo, admission €5). Otherwise, I recommend using the waterfront for a leisurely stroll or picnic overlooking the colourful houses on the opposite bank. 




8) Metropol Parasol


This particular architectural feat has been on display in Seville since 2011. The locals call it "Mushrooms" because the huge wooden structure unfolds in the shape of six mushrooms. The rooftop observation deck is probably the biggest attraction, but the building also includes a museum with Roman and Moorish excavations (the Antiquarium), a market and a number of restaurants. Entrance to the viewpoint is charged at €10, or more info on the official website.




9) Isla de la Cartuja


The neighborhood on the other side of the Guadalquivir River is a bit detached from the main tourist traffic, or rather we did not meet any tourists here. This is where the EXPO was held in 1992, after which there are many remarkable buildings left here. You can also visit the 15th century Carthusian monastery where Christopher Columbus stayed and died (Monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas). It is now home to the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo.




10) Aquarium Sevilla


We probably wouldn't have gone to the aquarium under normal circumstances, but it was raining... and in the end it was a very nice half-day program, even Kobliha was excited about watching the fish. What I saw for the very first time was feeding the octopuses - a great experience. Otherwise the entrance fee comes to 18€ (17€ if you buy online), more info about opening times and discounts on the official website here.




Trip to Córdoba


To get to Córdoba, about 140 km away, we used the train that I had booked in advance on the official RENFE website. The trains leave from Santa Justa's main station, and the fastest ones will get you to Córdoba in just 42 minutes. Unfortunately, these fast trains are expensive, so I combined the trips: one fast and one slower (1 hour 22 minutes), and in total I paid 1453,- CZK for us there and back.


We spent a full day and night in Córdoba, so we managed to get around the main must-sees plus get spoiled with some local delicacies. TIP: for a coffee with a great selection of cakes or breakfast try Veca Cafe - they have 2 branches, we tried both and both were great, and at a good price :) And what should you definitely not miss besides cafes? The historic centre of Córdoba is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and like Seville the main tourist spots are very close to each other. They're quite easy to get around on foot, and it's not too far from the train station either. We did this:


  • The Roman Bridge - it spans the Guadalquivir River (yes, yes, it's still the same as in Seville) and the most famous photos from Córdoba are from here. As well as a view of the historic part of the city, the bridge also offers a view of the old mills. They are no longer working, but they are worth a look. On the bank closer to the town centre stands the monumental entrance gate, it really cannot be missed. The opposite bank is guarded by the Calahorra Tower, which now houses a museum (official website here). TIP: if you need to keep the kids entertained, there is a cool and large playground on this side of the river.



  • Mezquita - or Mosque Cathedral offers a very interesting combination of Islamism and Christianity. The entrance fee is 13€, but unfortunately we didn't go inside because of the masses taking place. I recommend checking the opening hours beforehand, official website here. So we checked out the stunning bell tower (you can go separately for €3) and the courtyard, which is free to enter.

  • Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos - I definitely recommend a visit to this fortress, if only for the beautiful views from the walls and towers. And also because of the beautiful gardens. The entrance fee is not exorbitant, the fortress itself costs less than €5, or you can combine it with other attractions, see info here.

  • La Juderia - Jewish quarter around the Mezquita Cathedral. Here you will find a huge number of small streets with restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. Be sure not to miss the popular flower street Calle de las Flores, but in general it's quite a long walk around.



  • Roman temple - and on the contrary, this visit will be very short, as there is no way to go inside for a tour, nor is there any possibility to see the temple more closely. However, you can see the huge columns just fine "just off the street".


  • Plaza de la Corredera - you're walking through the narrow streets of Córdoba and suddenly you come upon this huge space surrounded on all sides by multi-storey buildings. There are various bars and restaurants in the arcades, but somehow we weren't entirely tempted to sit here.

  • Palacio de la Merced - we came to this old monastery by chance, but before Christmas a beautiful nativity scene was on display inside. There are generally events and exhibitions here, and admission is free.


Tips for accommodation in Córdoba



So that's it from Córdoba and Seville from me. But if you want to stay longer in Andalusia, which I recommend with all ten of you, check out the other articles from the area, you might find more inspiration there :)




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